Stan Woodward on the making of this film
Stan Woodward on the Making of "The Sheep Stew of Dundas
The most esoteric, most unusual, and most rare agrarian stew in the Brunswick Stew family of stews I documented while in the midst of shooting the Virginia Brunswick stew story in Brunswick County Virginia. I had learned of sheep stew while shooting the Brunswick stew cooked for the Red Oak Ruritan Club in Alberta, Virginia by Stewmaster, Mr. John Clay, Jr.
Sheep stew, I learned, was cooked in only three small towns- Dundas, in Lunenburg County, Danieltown and Kenbridge across the county line in Brunswick County. Go twenty miles in any direction from any of these towns and no one will have heard of sheep stew.
I traveled to Dundas one Sunday morning and figured that by attending the largest church there I might make contact with folks who knew something about the stew. Before the service, as men were coming up the stairs from Sunday School to attend the worship service, I stopped one of the men, told him about my documenting the Virginia Brunswick stew story, and had been told that I needed to come to Dundas and find out about Sheep stew. It turned out that the man I asked was the president of the Dundas Ruritan club. He invited me to join his family for lunch after church where I learned the history of sheep stew.
I was told that sheep was plentiful on area farms and the stew was made from the mutton of old sheep no longer useful for reproduction. Sheep stew was patterned after the method used in cooking the original Brunswick stew that tradition says was first made by a black camp cook - a freedman who worked for a Colonel Creed Haskins of Brunswick County back in 1828 on the banks of the Nottoway River. The original Brunswick stew was made from large forest squirrels and seasoned with onion and black pepper, while the sheep stew substituted culled sheep for the squirrels. The sheep stew, as well as the more traditional Brunswick stew, was cooked on farms and more often as church, volunteer fire department and community fundraisers.
I learned that sheep stew was first cooked during the depression by a Stewmaster from Danieltown to feed folks who attended the annual baseball game played between Danieltown and Dundas. The stew caught on and began to be cooked by the Dundas Ruritan club. The people of Dundas developed a liking for the stew and whenever a stew was announced folks, black and white, lined up for a quarter of a mile from the stew-site to buy quarts and gallons of the stew for their families. Downtown Dundas has one country store, a post office and the Dundas Ruritan Club, which has a stew shed containing four giant 500 gallon black iron pots stored underneath. Today a huge sign stands down town which reads, "DUNDAS SHEEP STEW - A Gastronomical Delight".
Dundas sheep stew is cooked and sold by the club four times a year on holidays. When I was shooting the documentary the stew was cooked by a seasoned stew-master named Maxie Moore, who used the recipe handed down to him by the previous Stewmaster. Maxie used a stew crew of 23 men working three shifts over a period of 18 hours using the gigantic black iron pots to cook the stew over wood fires. The mutton stew is stirred with hand-hewn wooden paddles specially designed to stir the hard-to-stir bones of the culled sheep. The older men on the stew crew start stirring the stew in the early evening after vegetables are added, while the stew consistency is easy to stir. Around 1 AM the second group of stew stirrers arrive when the stew begins to thicken and requires younger men strong enough to continue stirring vigorously to keep the stew from sticking to the bottom of the boiling cast iron pots. At 7 AM the third stew crew arrives made up of eighteen to twenty five year olds who are the youngest and strongest members of the Dundas Ruritan club. This third shift is responsible for keeping the very thick and hard-to-stir stew from sticking and burning until 11 O'clock when the heat is lowered and the Stewmaster begins adding secret ingredients. From noon to 1 PM the stew is dipped into styrofoam cups and awaiting gallon jars brought by customers from the local community and people who have traveled from as far as Richmond, Virginia who grew up in the community having acquired a taste for the stew that locals say "You either like, or can't stand."
This glimpse into a 70- year-old tradition is singularly unique, and is a classic look at the folk heritage foodway developed in agrarian South-side Virginia.